No right-click allowed. © Mareike Keicher

Tag : solar curve

Camera Lenses

Capture One Pro Tips – Easy Dust Spot Finder & Removal Tools

So far, removing dust spots has been one of the first steps in post-production. Previously, there were two ways to do this: While the limited number of 100 points within the Remove Spot option in Capture One 12 was quite unflexible and, of course, limited; Photoshop was more time-consuming but more accurate and flexible in the shape of the correction area. There we used the combination of our Solar Curve (= Dust Spot Finder) and Healing Brush/Spot Healing Brush.

Some time passed, and the new upgrade to Capture One 20 was released. This has changed our workflow in that way that we prefer to Capture One for this step. But why?

The fact that these spots in the image appear very consistent in subsequent images means that we can automatically have them recalculated in all successive images of one photoshoot in Capture One (also at the early stage of tethering) – just with two small clicks and a quick check of the result.
With the new tools, Capture One 20 has eliminated the lack of flexibility and limitation, i.e., the previous negative points.

The new workflow

What we need for our Capture One cleanup

  • +1 New Filled Adjustment Layer (Dust Spot Finder/help layer -> save as preset, delete later)
  • +1 New Heal Layer (Dust Removal)

Of course, you can use different options as help layers. You can manually set our previous Solar Curve (use the input and output numbers) in Capture One (Window: Curve), or you could also use these great settings from Paul Reiffer. Maybe a mixture of both help layers works great for you (+2 New Filled Adjustment Layers with adjusted opacity). Just play around, and don’t forget to save your personal one (right-click on the layer, save as style).

Here are the adjustments from Paul Reiffer as an overview:

  • (Exposure)
    Contrast: +50
    Brightness: -10 to -20
    Saturation: -50 to -60
  • (High Dynamic Range)
    Highlight: -100
    Shadow: +100
  • (Clarity)
    Clarity: +50 to +70
    Structure: +50 to +70

If you have time, have a look at the full video of Paul Reiffer below.

Do you have any suggestions, additions, is this post out of date, or have you found any mistakes? Then we look forward to your comment. You are welcome to share this post. We are very grateful for every recommendation.

Solar-Curve-6-points_colorpreview

The “Solar Curve” (Solarization curve)

What is the “Solar Curve”?

The “Solar Curve” looks like a wave created from the normal linear curve inside of Photoshop. Normally 4 or 6 points are inserted. Mathematically one divides the entire range (0-255) into 5 or 7 parts and sets accordingly the points:

4-point Solar Curve

If you want to set 4 new points, simply divide the 255 (maximum) by five and get 51. These points result accordingly:

Input / Output
0/0
51/255

101/0
152/255
203/0
255/255

It will look like that:

6-point Solar Curve

If you want to set 6 new points, you simply divide the 255 (maximum) by seven and get 36. Accordingly, these points result in:

Input / Output
0/0
36/255
72/0
109/255 * actually 108, has been rounded up
145/0
181/255
218/0 * actually 217, has been rounded up
255/255

It will look like that:

What does the solar curve do with the image?

Example:
solar-curve_00
solar-curve_01
As you can see in the picture, the Solar Curve is used to map the small contrasts to extreme changes. This creates a very alienated but also enlightening view. This view is ideal for revealing sensor spots/freckles or a single hair, but also to be able better to judge the gentle transitions between light and shadow.

Here it reveals everything that could be somehow “dirty”. So here’s a round of criticism of your own work (from a time when the solar curve was not yet part of my standard workflow):

solar-curve_02

On the left, you can see a bit of banding; at the top, a sensor spot/freckle was overlooked, and there are still a lot of spots on the forehead. Yeah. Did you see that in the picture above?

Why do you need such precise editing?

This question often pops up (“No one sees that anyway”), and usually, that’s true.
One thing you must not forget: not every screen is the same. Those aspects that your screen may not display could be displayed on another display (possibly a disastrous low-budget discount screen that had been in the public office of the pro-chain smoker association for years and had its best times – if you can speak of it) can look completely different – and indeed by unnatural extreme shifts, such editing errors are no longer almost invisible.

Another example is backlit displays – everything that is printed and then backlit should be very smooth and clean. Mirror foil is also really mean and does not always reveal the best in retouching.

When one works for a client, you never know what he will do with the files – maybe just a brochure is planned, but a bit later could be an exhibition/fair asking for a large format display. You never know.

Working with a visible Solar Curve?

That does not sound tempting?
Immediately seeing where these minimal changes have yet to be made, seeing the little luminance issues burning in the night at Dodge & Burn, that sounds great, doesn’t it?
I use the Solar Curve for sensor spots/freckles, clone stamp, double-check, and hair. To sum up, everything you want to remove 100% clean and has very low contrasts.
Miraculously, you can use this view as a negative or with additional contrast enhancement to unmask even more of the problem areas.

For everything else: Leave it. You run the risk to retouch any naturalness away.

Do you have any suggestions, additions, is this post out of date, or have you found any mistakes? Then we look forward to your comment.
You are welcome to share this post. We are very grateful for every recommendation.